It's effortless style. People define it as elegant nonchalance. However you cut it, sprezzatura's a philosophy for the modern gentleman. Keep reading for ways you can face the world with sprezzatura and refine your style.
July 25, 2024
Written by Jericho Bundac
Image CreditBerg & Berg
You know it when you see it. But sprezzatura is difficult to pin down and define. The Italian aesthetic can be called an elegant nonchalance. Here's how Italian fashion icon Luciano Barbera describes sprezzatura:
"It literally means detachment, but a better way to think of it is quiet confidence or low-key style. The most forceful statement is understatement."
Barbera believes that "A man must face the world with sprezzatura." But again, what does that mean? And how does a man incorporate sprezzatura in their style? Let's explore the topic together and become more stylish along the way.
We'll talk about definitions and elements of the philosophy, but we won't skip out on real-world examples and ways that you can refine your style. But first, let's start with the qualities of man with sprezzatura.
Baldessare Castiglione gets credit for coining the term "sprezzatura." In The Book of the Courtier, he defined it as a "certain nonchalance," the ability to "make whatever one does or says appear to be without effort and almost without any thought." The term has since been adopted to describe the effortless style of Italian gentlemen featured in piazzas from Turin to Rome.
However, it's not reserved only for those with an Italian passport. Here are the qualities of a man who lives with sprezzatura:
Embraces Understated Style - There's a subtlety to sprezzatura. It isn't loud and boisterous. You may not even be able to point it out, but you know it when you see it.
Owns High-Quality Staples - It's easier to be stylish with high-quality clothing. Gravitate to natural materials and fine craftsmanship in clothing to radiate timeless style befitting a man with sprezzatura.
Rolls with Imperfections - Small imperfections are the hallmark of sprezzatura. Rigid tailoring steps aside to make way for asymmetry and clothing that moves with you and becomes defined as you experience your day.
Encourages Fluidity - Undoing a button as the temperature rises or tucking in a pocket square rather than folding it are signals of sprezzatura. Embracing the real world lends itself to a style that's fluid, not static.
Style Conscious - It may go without saying, but effortless style doesn't mean being thoughtless. Achieving sprezzatura requires you to be conscious of your outfit's design, quality and style while accepting life's practicalities.
Now, it's time to see what sprezzatura looks like in action. Let's examine examples and discuss how you can apply sprezzatura to your style.
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Before we talk about living with sprezzatura, it's worthwhile to point out what it's not. Pre-tied bowties, clip-on ties, and pre-folded pocket squares and handkerchiefs DO NOT invoke sprezzatura. Overly perfect elements show a lack of effort rather than effortless style.
Invoke sprezzatura as a means to express your personal style. Be thoughtful and style-conscious, but know that effortless style doesn't have to be complicated. Here are elements of sprezzatura you can add to outfits that help you exude an effortless energy.
Sprezzatura Starts and Ends with High-Quality Staples
Elevated wardrobe staples made with craftsmanship from superior materials are hallmarks of timeless Italian style. From dress shirts made of fine cotton to wool trousers to leather shoes, a foundation of timeless pieces provides comfort, elegance, and certain je nais se quois.
As you build your wardrobe, it's crucial to be mindful of fabrics and styles. You'll have your wool suits for the office during colder months, but make sure you have pieces like unlined cotton and linen suit jackets for spring and summer. For dress shirts, choose a cutaway or button-down collar instead of a standard spread collar.
Some fabrics offer a more natural and relaxed energy. Linen's breathability makes it a terrific choice for a summer suit, and seersucker's crinkled nature keeps you cool while providing a playful look.
Shantung silk ties, with their naturally occurring slubs, create one-of-a-kind pieces where imperfection is part of its charm. Grenadine ties are woven to create visual interest, whether you're going to a spring wedding reception or a business meeting with a client.
With your foundation of high-quality staples, you're set to assemble classic outfits that radiate sprezzatura. Go ahead and pair formal pieces with informal ones. Wear dress trousers with an open-collar shirt to create a relaxed aesthetic that belongs on the streets of Rome.
You can also put together slim-fit dark-wash jeans with an unstructured sports coat. Roll up your shirt sleeves and sling the sport coat over your shoulder so you can seamlessly go from an afternoon coffee to an evening cocktail.
The goal behind mixing styles is to create an outfit that feels casual and relaxed while looking stylish and refined.
It's a relaxed move that comes naturally. Undo the top button on your shirt between sips of espresso while conversing with a friend. Undo the buttons on your sleeves and roll them up while you're at it. It's a great move in the spring and summer when you're relaxed and trying to get more ventilation.
You can undo buttons on your suit jacket or sport coat, too. Rules say to button up when standing, but you can wink at nonchalance by leaving buttons undone. Opening up your jacket also lets others peek at your shirt and tie. Speaking of your tie, wearing one gives you another opportunity to flex some effortless elegance.
No, we don't mean undoing your tie and letting it hang around your neck. More subtle and elegant ways to use your tie to exhibit sprezzatura exist.
Elaborate knots like the Windsor or the Eldredge scream "overdone." Go with a knot like the Four-in-Hand. Its simplicity and asymmetry provide an air of elegant nonchalance—plus, it features a charming dimple (when it's done right).
Another way to use your tie to exhibit sprezzatura is to ignore the keeper, which is the loop on the back of your front tie blade that holds the tie's narrow end. This move makes the tie look less formal, but you risk looking sloppy if the blades split wide to form a large V.
Therein lies the challenge with sprezzatura. Effortless style can look sloppy if it misses the mark.
Sloppy or Sprezzatura?
Some ways to show effortless style come off as messy, so beware. Bruno Cucinelli wears extra long belts, allowing excess material to hang by his trousers. Some men do the same with their tie, leaving the tail end longer than the blade. Many point to Gianni Agnelli wearing his wristwatch over his sleeve as an example of sprezzatura.
You may have impeccable personal style, but chances are you're no Bruno Cucinelli or Gianni Agnelli. So, be thoughtful about how you express your style. You can end up looking sloppy.
Remember what Luciano Barbera said, "The most forceful statement is understatement." Use a subtle touch to express your style. Be genuine. Stay true to yourself. Try these strategies like you try on a piece of clothing. See if it works for you and your style.