Know Your Ties: Anatomy of A Tie
When shopping for a tie, many people focus on appearance (length, width, pattern) without realizing that the method of construction also has an important bearing on the general quality and feel of a necktie. You don't need to be a skilled tailor to know the basics of necktie construction, and this knowledge will make you a more informed buyer, ensuring that you seek out ties which are not only beautiful but are made to last. Below is a breakdown of the main elements of a tie.
Ties are made by folding fabric. Pictured here is one of our Six-Fold ties. It is produced from a single piece of silk fabric that is folded six times during construction. Contemporary ties are folded three times. The Six-Fold method requires more fabric which in turn lends greater weight to the tie, improves drape, and offers superior knots.
The more the better? We don't think so. It all depends on what you're looing for. Contemporary 3-Fold ties can be equally as good as a Six-Fold tie. Ultimately, construction and quality raw materials are the deciding factors. The benefits of additional silk/folds peaks at Six-Folds in our opinion. That is why we don't sell Seven-Fold ties - they tend to be too heavy, retain wrinkles and offer less than fantastic knots.
We make our Six-Folds (Sartorial Collection) with high-quality wool interlining which minimizes wrinkling and helps the tie maintain its shape.
'Tipping' is the material used to finish the reverse side of the tie. In many ties, the tipping is of a different, contrasting material than that used for the body or 'envelope' of the tie. If a more inferior fabric is used for the tip you may want to question the quality of your tie. This approach is usually a hallmark of cost cutting.
All our Six-Fold ties are self-tipped, meaning that the tipping is of the same, high-quality silk as the envelope. Self-tipping is an indicator that no corners were cut.
The 'loop' or 'keeper' is the band of material on the reverse of the envelope that secures the back blade or 'tail' of the tie. Many manufacturers use brand labels as keepers, but these keepers often fail to withstand the stresses and strains of everyday wear. As the most functional element of the tie, the keeper must be of a quality material that is well-secured to the envelope. All our ties are therefore constructed with a self-keeper which, like the tipping, is of the same silk material as the envelope.
As with the keeper, it's critical that the rest of your necktie be constructed so as to handle the compression and stretching that results from tying and untying. At AKLASU we refer to this as a tie's ability to 'breathe.' The folds of our ties are secured at the back with a slip stitch, a single thread that runs the length of the tie, holding the material securely in place while also allowing it to stretch and regain its shape (i.e. breathe) after each use.
The bar tack is a heavy stitch that reinforces the slip stitch, ensuring that the folds of the tie are firmly held together. This subtle detail, as with every stitch in our ties, is made by hand. We believe that the conscientiousness of a skilled human hand lends a quality that is unparalleled by machine-produced ties.
100% Como Silk
We value timelessness, which is why our ties are made of silk from Como, Italy. Como is traditionally known as the silk capital of the world and sartorial creations from this cosmopolitan hub have been the choice of numerous celebrities and style icons for decades. We are dedicated to creating enduring pieces that not only weather time materially but also aesthetically. An AKLASU tie never goes out of style.